When you're a teenager in seventies Stoke living on Smash and Cup-a-Soup, there's only one thing you long to acquire: Taste. At least you do if you're Stephen Beckett, and you're convinced you were born into the wrong class. So when middle age nears and you're running your own trendy Brighton eatery, you're entitled to think you've made it. But you're about to find out just how expensive taste can be. How it can cost you: X Your wife and children X Your friends and family.