Relive Casino Royale and cruise the Grand Canal in your very own speedboat Escape the menu turistico and dine instead on baccala and Bellinis in hidden backstreet bars Take the art-pilgrim path to Padua, then sit with fireflies in Verona's pink-marble arena Contemplate Venice's less salubrious past, when the Catalogue of Courtesans was the guidebook of choice In This Guide: One author, 12 years of Venice know-how, five extended walks, one attempt at the Vogalonga The only guide that goes the extra mile in finding gorgeous, great value canalside accommodation Meet the mayor, learn about the lagoon and appreciate the city's artistic heritage - locals spill the beans on Italy's most beautiful city